🔌 Power Up Your Control Game!
The eMylo Smart RF Relay Switch is a versatile and compact wireless remote control switch designed for home automation and industrial applications. Operating at 433MHz, it offers high security, long-range sensitivity, and customizable modes, making it an essential tool for both DIY enthusiasts and professionals.
Connector Type | Screw |
Contact Material | Silver |
Contact Type | Normally Open |
Current Rating | 1E+1 Amps |
Mounting Type | Wall Mount |
Brand | Yasorn |
Operation Mode | Manual |
Wattage | 12 watts |
Coil Voltage | 12 Volts |
Contact Current Rating | 10 Amps |
Maximum Switching Current | 10 Amps |
Maximum Switching Voltage | 12 Volts |
Minimum Switching Voltage | 12 Volts (DC) |
Specification Met | UL |
Upper Temperature Rating | 70 Degrees Celsius |
UPC | 760970001017 |
Manufacturer | Yasorn |
Part Number | YSL116D4N-FBA |
Item Weight | 3.52 ounces |
Package Dimensions | 4.09 x 3.43 x 1.73 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | YSL116D4N-FBA |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Size | 1-Channel |
Color | 12V 1 Channel |
Style | 12V 1-Channel |
Material | Copper |
Pattern | 1-Channel |
Voltage | 6 Volts |
Measurement System | Metric, Imperial |
Switch Style | Temperature Switch |
Batteries Included? | Yes |
Batteries Required? | No |
G**A
Works great.
Easy to install.
L**K
Tricky but works great
I am an electrician so I know what I needed. It was a little challenging to get it to work until I realized even though the instructions says it could operate on 6 to 24vdc according to the instruction it did have to have 12volts for the relay to activate. I had 15vdc on my garage door opener so I supplied it with that voltage and everything then worked fine, I originally applied 6vdc. it lit up the leds but would not actuate the relay. The garge door shut from outside in my vehicle better that the original opener so it gets a good signal surprisingly. I tried another one and that was similar and it would not work at all. Very pleased with this one as now all is working fine.
W**.
Saved me LOTS of $$ on either a new garage door opener or new circuit board installation.
The one negative I had was with the installation instructions. Many languages and microscopic font sizes. 67 here and reading isn't like it used to be. My son, with help from the WEB, figured it out how to install. (A video on the web detailing the installation from the manufacturer would be great BTW.)Once assembled and all wired up, I couldn't have asked for a better product that got my garage door opener working again. I spliced the remote in to the 'wall push button opener switch', hooked up a power supply (not provided or need mentioned), and I was back in business. Activates around 90 -100 feet away from unit. Push remote button once - 'door either starts to open or close'. Then you push the remote again to reset the wall switch push button to be ready to open or close the next time it needs to do its thing. Simply put, ...push the remote button and door starts to open or close, then you press the remote again a few seconds or so later to reset the switch. Push again for open or close, and once more to reset. Very simple clicking remote works quite well. I'd buy it again in a second.
L**N
Works….somewhat.
This system works, but only for a few seconds. If you have it set to momentary, and hold the button down on the remote, you only get about 3 seconds, before the relay opens back up. Doesn’t matter which remote you use, or if the batteries are new. It’s like it has a “timeout” function. I set this up to activate an air horn relay for pest deterrent, and I can’t have it activate for long enough to actually do its job. Very disappointed.
T**Y
Instructions are a bit confusing. Programming also a bit of a challange
Bottom line... once I figure out the wiring and the programming it's working great. Now the issues...Unlike some systems, this one keeps the wires for the relay pull in coil COMPLETELY separated from the contacts for the relay. So. Everything I say is for the 12 v model. To wire it you connect two wires to the IN terminals, what the instructs call cathode and anode. To the - you connect the ground wire. To the + you connect the hot wire. This powers the receiver in the module so it's always "listening" for a signal from the remote fob. Now, the other half of this thing is the relay side. Its terminals are completely separate. There is a COM terminal. From normal use that will be where you will connect the positive source wire which you want to control. In a car that would be the "hot" from the battery. It can always be hot if that's what you need or it can be hot only when the ignition is on. If it's the first, then you can connect it to the same place as the + IN wire; then it will always be hot. if you don't want it to always be hot you need to connect it to an ignition switched source of power. That leaves two remaining terminals. One of them is NO, normally open, the other is NC, normally closed. Which one you choose depends on what you want to happen when you push the FOB button. In addition, you can program the relay action when the FOB button is pushed. Jog, latch, toggle. Jog means that when you push the FOB button the relay will turn on only for as long as you hold the fob button down. Let it up and the relay goes off. Latch means that once you push the fob button the relay turns on and stays on. The ONLY way to turn it back off is to disconnect power from the IN terminal. That resets the relay. Toggle mode makes it turn the relay ON when you push the button and it stays on till you push the button again... in other words, each time you push the Fob button the relay switches from whatever it is to the other, from on to off, or from off to on. So for example, to run a solenoid to open a trunk you want the module to always be on so you hook the IN - and IN + so it always gets power. You then hook always on power to the COM terminal so the relay always is ready to power something. Then you hook the solenoid's power wire to the NO contact. That means that when the module is "sleeping" no power gets sent to the solenoid. You program the module to JOG so when you push the button it activates the relay and sends power to the solenoid ONLY while you hold the button down. As soon as you let the button go the relay shuts off and that cuts power to the solenoid.Now... how to program the module for the different modes. Try to follow the instructions... I'd have to write a lot to make it clearer and it would still be confusing because there is both the red and green light and it's not always clear which light they are talking about when they say the "lights will flash". Oh, did I mention you'll need to pry the cover off so you can see the lights and get to the programming button? Yes, you will. Also, if you use larger wires like I did you'll need to cut the opening larger, so the wires have room to stick out. If you used small single strand wire you could probably work around the small opening. I spend close to half an hour fiddling with button pushes to finally get it programmed into JOG mode. It seems to come programed for toggle mode. A few times I got it into Latch mode and the only way to move beyond that point is to disconnect power and start over. Similarly, if you don't wind up in the mode you wanted you need to go back to step one and go thru all 4 steps for programming and pairing the Fobs.
M**L
Here is how it works ...
If you're trying to understand this device then look at my three drawings and come back and read the rest of this review...The three different behavior modes that you can program using the programming button merely controls how the relay behaves. You can set it up so that the relay actuates when you hit the button but then disengages when you let the button go, or you can set it up so that when you hit the button, the relay actuates and never switches back to its "resting state" unless you remove power, or in the third mode, the relay is merely toggled on when you press the button but then toggled off when you press the button again.What is literally happening is when you press the button, the coil gets energized and the thin metal reed is switched from the common pin connected to the NC pin ... so that it now connects the common pin over to the Normally Open pin ... then back again when it goes back to its resting state.Hope this helps.
L**Y
How to view pictures, there are no instructions.
good product. Does what it is made for. I mounted the push button by the door. Now we can have lights when we come in. the negative part was the terminal block wire slots were so close together I couldn't use 16ga. stranded. I had to use 18ga. solid to keep the wires from touching each other. So the 4 star rating. the system gives me remote control of the lights. Much brighter than expected!The picture show hooking a positive wire to a negative, I knew that would be a dead short. I figured it out.
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